1. Planning your landscape is like painting a picture on canvas. Just like your art teacher in high school told you – have a main point of interest and add several sub points to make your beautiful landscape more interesting. You imagine it in your mind, draw sketches and fill in all the details that you’ve dreamed of. Keep revising your sketch until it looks like the picture you have in mind.

2. Not feeling very artistic? If you’re a more ‘concrete’ person, try laying out garden hoses or heavy string in your yard to get a feel for how and where you want to divide up your space. Remember to think balance, not symmetry. Some people think that they have to plant trees and flowers in straight, boring rows. Tip: pick an odd number when planting trees or flowers. With flowers, plant several of the same plant in groups to make a large color splash. Better to have a few, well chosen, bold splashes of color than to have tiny spots of color spread all over a large area.

3. If you’re having a hard time thinking of what your chief point of interest can be, close your eyes and think about what you like most about your yard. Is there a tall, solo pine tree, a grouping of birch trees, a rocky ledge, an old weathered fence or something else that catches your eye? If you can’t find something of interest that’s already in place, think about adding something that you admire from a picture in a magazine or something that caught your eye when you were driving through a beautiful neighborhood. Tip: do NOT copy something that your next door neighbor is doing. They won’t appreciate it and it won’t look nearly as special if both of you are going for the same effect.

4. Still can’t think of a chief point of interest? What about creating a spot for a water fall? Not a pond – that’s old news! With a re-cycling water fall, you don’t have to worry about standing pond water or algae. Just pick some interesting rocks or boulders of varying sizes, arrange them to cascade down a slope, add plants and water. Viola! Or, how about a rock path winding through your yard? Or a rock wall of native stone to create interest?

5. If you choose a tree or group of trees to be your main point of interest, don’t center them in your yard. It’s far more interesting to place them a bit off center. Don’t choose a huge, overpowering tree; the tree should have a good shape, with something interesting about its bark, leaves, seed pods, flowers or fruit. Tip: while the poplar is a striking tree and a rapid grower, it sheds its leaves early and so is left standing with bare branches in early fall. The poplar makes a better choice for a backyard tree or when creating a dividing space between your yard and your neighbors. Good choices for trees are the mountain ash with bright berries, the brilliant leaves of the sugar maple or the bark of the white birch, which all add interest to your total landscape.

6. It is always best to choose trees and shrubs that thrive in your local climate. It’s tempting to choose something exotic out of a catalog but you’ll be unhappy if the tree you choose is not right for your climate. Trees are a big investment, choose wisely.

7. Flowering vines can also be used to create interest. Whether you choose an ivy to climb the bricks on your house or a trumpet vine to wind around an old weathered fence along side your house, both can be used as sub points to accent your main point of interest. Tip: perennial vines can be used to form a permanent addition to your landscape scheme. The Virginia creeper, wisteria, honeysuckle, a climbing rose or clematis all make excellent choices for creating interest and can be used to minimize minor imperfections in walls.

8. And for a final flair, add a colorful flag to your landscape design. Whether you choose a whimsical, garden flag or a majestic, patriotic American Flag, both will create interest and add color to your landscape. Tip: choose polyester for greatest durability of a flag that is flown daily. Choose nylon flags for flying in the lightest breeze. There are several new, flag hanger styles available if you don’t already have a flag pole in your yard. The spinning flagpole mounts on your house, deck or mailbox post, and is designed to keep your flag from wrapping. And the telescoping flagpole easily extends up to 20 feet in seconds or down to 7 feet for portability.

With the hustle and bustle associated with daily life in the 21st century, many people have become intensely interested in developing a living environment at home that is soothing, calming and peaceful. Towards this end, an ever growing number of people have come to recognize and appreciate the benefits of gardens. Indeed, the life enhancing benefits of plants and flowers is significant.

As a consequence of an increasing segment of the population who expresses an interest in developing that perfect home garden — complete with lush plants and colorful flowers — many people are faced with the question of whether they should plant and create their own garden spaces or whether they should call in a landscaping professional.

In considering whether to “do it yourself” (when it comes to creating a garden and undertaking landscaping) or whether to hire a professional, there are pros and cons to be found on both sides of the proverbial fence. Of course, as mentioned previously, the 21st century is a point in time when many, many people maintain very full schedules. In other words, they simply do not have the time to spend creating that prefect garden or landscape for their homes. Obviously, for such men and women, a professional landscape artist provides the perfect solution.

On the other hand, precisely because life is rushed for so many people, gardening can be a great release and relief. People can obtain a much needed break from the machinations of their daily schedules by spending quality time working the soil, planting flowers and tending to garden plots and patches generally.

You may be one of those people who would like to undertake the creation of your own flower and plant gardens on your own. However, you may feel that you lack the necessary “green thumb” to develop an eye-catching and visually appealing landscape. If that is the case, if you are a person who would like to take up the creation of flower gardens and landscaping on your own but feel you need some guidance, help and assistance is available.

There are now a group of gardening and landscaping professionals available to consult with you in the development and creation of attractive outdoor scenes. These consultants work hand in hand with you; they provide definitive expertise and assistance in aiding you in the design and implementation of an attractive landscape complete with stunning flower gardens and vibrant greenery.

In the final analysis, there are benefits to be had both by understaking your own gardening and landscaping course or by calling in the aid of a gardening consultant or a full-service landscaping operator. When all is said and done, you will end up with gardens and landscaping that you will make you proud and that will make your home all the more appealing.

So you find yourself in the middle of the worst drought within living memory and your garden occupants are starting to sag, flag and wilt. Which plants should be watered first and which plants should receive the main quantities of the irrigation? You begin to feel like the leader of a third world country trying to spread your counties meagre budget across healthcare, military and education. Never fear, let me dampen your worries with some drought advice.

First to receive the H2O

Recent plantings are top of the list for regular watering, if water is available. New plantings such as bare-root trees or shrubs planted the previous autumn / winter, with newly planted perennials also at great risk from drought damage. You see these new plantings have not had much time to produce water-seeking roots, the type of roots that travel deep and wide for moisture. Because of this, we must supplement the plants natural water supply. During a hosepipe ban, recent plantings of annual bedding summer bedding such as marigolds, impatiens, Nicotiana etc should be regarded as probable casualties of the water war. If I had a limited supply of water to divide between a Japanese maple and some annual bedding, I am afraid the maple would receive the lions share and to hell with the bedding. As a rule of thumb, if the soil 5cm (2 inches) below the grounds surface is dry, then it is time to water. The following is short list of plants can cope with a short period of drought, once established… Brachyglottis, Corokia, Gleditsia, Halimiocistus, and Hippophae.

Container plants during a drought

Next on the water-receiving list are containerised plants, hanging baskets and window boxes. Essentially a containerised plant is growing above the ground water table, with just the soil inside the container to provide the required moisture. If the moisture is not inside the container, then I am afraid the roots have nowhere else to go to quench the plants thirst. Again, if the compost 5cm (2 inches) below the pots surface is dry, then it is time to water, it is up to the gardener to provide that water when required. Try to provide a catch plate or tray beneath containers, these “catchers” will contain any excess water that will eventually be absorbed in the compost. Be aware that terracotta and other porous container materials absorb a good quantity of water that the plant is then unable to access. The following is a short list of container bedding plants that can cope with a short period of drought, once established… Arctotis, Lantana, Plectranthus, Portulaca and Zinnia

Vegetables and fruit during a dry spell

Provide adequate quantities of water for moisture-hungry vegetables such a tomatoes, peas, onions, cucumbers, marrows and lettuce. Insufficient supplies of water will lead to miniature, shrivelled and limp specimens. Fruiting plants such as strawberries, raspberries, currants, apple and pear trees are also very moisture hungry especially while their fruit is forming. Notice how much water is within a strawberry or pear the next time you eat one of these delights. Water-content figures of 70 to 90% are quoted for fruits and vegetables, regardless of whichever quantity is correct, you must supply that water during a drought. Plants growing in an exposed or wind swept area will require a fair quantity of supplementary water during a drought. Have you ever gone for a bracing walk on a windy day, upon arriving home, you smile at your spouse, children or pet and realise that your lips are cracked and chapped, ouch! This illustrates the severe drying element of a strong breeze, plants leaves are constantly being dried out and then remoistened by water from the soil when available. During a drought, if that water is not present the leaves will dry up, shrivel and shed. This is known as the desiccation of foliage. Watering deeply will prevent this happening.

Shallow rooters and moisture lovers

Shrubs and trees that are shallow rooted or have a particular liking for moist soils are quite at risk during a drought period. The shallow rooted specimens include Rhododendron, Azalea, Heather (Erica), Hydrangea and Birch (Betula). The moisture lovers include Hosta, Ferns, Helleborus, Sarcococca, Fatsia and Camellia. If water is available, please allocate some to these plants. Climbers or wall-shrubs planted close to house walls will struggle for moisture at the best of times, due mainly to the rain-shadow cast by the house itself. Do not forget to water these wall huggers. The following is a short list of climbers that can cope with a short period of drought, once established… Clematis Montana, Fallopia, Jasminum, Trachelospermum and Vitis.

Lawns during a hosepipe ban

During a drought, the first part of the garden that people tend to water is the lawn. This is probably because lawns usually make up quite a quantity of most gardens and these lawns tend to look burnt earlier than many plants. However, the lawn would be the last form of plant life within my garden that would receive any rationed water. Lawns are more resilient than you may think, a green lawn that becomes browned off due to water shortage will eventually return after a few heavy rain showers. The burnt piece is the foliage above ground; the roots below ground will sit tight and wait the dry spell out. Of course, lawns comprised totally of fine grass will be damaged significantly by prolonged dry weather, but you should have no worries if your lawn is sown with a utility seed mix (No. 2 or Manhattan mix).

How to apply water during a drought (if water is available)

I find sprinklers are quite wasteful of the available albeit rationed water, instead I would choose either hand watering or seep watering. With hand watering you direct your watering can or hose to the base of your chosen plant, water deeply at a rate of approx 10 litres per metre squared. Watering lightly will do more harm than good as it encourages surface rooting, which is easily damaged. On many dry soils, water applied directly will tend to run off over the soils surface and away from the plants base, if this happens try the following trick. Sink a two-litre pot filled with gravel at the base of the plant, water slowly into this pot and you will have no run off problems. Seep watering, also known as drip irrigation is an effective and economical way to apply much needed moisture directly. Most well stocked garden centres will sell seep hose or porous pipe, which you will weave between plants within your beds and borders. This seep hose when connected to a water supply will slowly ooze water through small holes along the length of the pipe. It is extremely direct and efficient.